Hawai‘i Island is one of the most climatically and physically diverse places in the world, from the black sand beaches of Punalu‘u to the ice-capped summit of Mauna Kea, the lush rainforests of Hilo to the dry and hot Kona lava fields.
PHOTO BY IJFKE RIDGLEY
NORTH & SOUTH KONA
The Kona coast draws crowds looking for warm, sunny weather and shoreline fun. South of the airport, the “big city” of Kailua-Kona is the go-to for dining and shopping options, as well as charmingly retro accommodations. Further south, the road narrows, and foliage increases as you head into the lush environs of Captain Cook, which goes down to Kealakekua Bay and seaside villages beyond. North of the airport, endless lava fields are broken up by oases of coconut trees, ancient fish ponds, and resort complexes.
HISTORY
Hulihee Palace (daughtersofhawaii.org/hulihee-palace) in Kailua-Kona was built out of lava rock during the Kingdom of Hawai‘i on land that was once the residence of King Kamehameha the Great. Today, it is a museum showcasing artifacts from the era of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapi‘olani.
DON’T MISS
In South Kona sits Pu‘uhonua O Hōnaunau National Historical Park (nps.gov/puho), a place of refuge for defeated warriors and those who broke kapu (sacred) laws. It is one of the most significant sites from ancient Hawaiian society and is stunningly beautiful. On the beach at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai (fourseasons.com/hualalai), the impeccable ‘Ulu Ocean Grill specializes in seafood grown on-site or nearby. The recently renovated Pacific 19 hotel (pacific19.com) in Kona offers hip, retro décor at an affordable price. Make a reservation in advance for Sushi Sam (sushisamhawaii.com), as the notable sushi restaurant fills up quickly. In tranquil Keauhou, about 6 miles south of Kona, enjoy 18 holes on the Kona Country Club championship course (konacountryclub.com). Head upcountry to explore Kona coffee farms and the charming plantation town of Hōlualoa, home today to upscale art galleries. In Captain Cook, the historic Manago Hotel and Restaurant (managohotel.com) is Hawai‘i’s oldest resto, where locals have enjoyed its famous pork chops since 1917.
LOCALS KNOW
When the tradewinds are down or when the volcanoes are particularly active, the Kona side of the island is often affected by vog or volcanic air pollution. Locals often drink tea made from the endemic native Hawaiian Makaki plant to combat the respiratory effects of vog and it is served at coffee shops the island over.
SOUTH & NORTH KOHALA
The Kohala Coast offers some of the most breathtaking views and enviable real estate in the area, including iconic resorts and shopping plazas. Wide beaches with white sand are some of the best on the island and can be found at Hapuna and Mauna Kea Beaches. As the road heads north, you drive high along the mountain slopes, overlooking sprawling ranches and the vast Pacific. The charming town of Hāwi offers boutiques and art galleries in historic storefronts, while the neighboring village of Kapa‘au boasts the original bronze statue of King Kamehameha. The end of the road leads to Pololū Valley, with stunning panoramas of the cliffed coastline and a hike down to the black sand beach.
HISTORY
The sleepy hamlet of Puako may be a drive off the main highway, but it is worth the detour. Restored plantation homes line a lava-rock coastline that boasts some of the best snorkeling in the state without the crowds. Pop in for provisions at the charming old Blue Wilderness General Store, across the street from the historic Hokuloa Church, built in 1860. Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve has a collection of 3,000 stone etchings dating back to 1200 AD.
DON‘T MISS
The legendary Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (maunakeabeachhotel.com) was the first luxury resort on Hawai‘i Island when it opened in 1965, a year after its golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr. debuted. Manta, the hotel’s signature restaurant, and the Copper Bar restaurant offer diverse culinary treats with beautiful vistas, while the casual beachside Hau Tree is the perfect place to cool off with a frozen cocktail. On the Mauna Lani Resort, Fairmont Orchid (fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii) is the setting of the lively Binchotan Bar & Grill, which gives a modern twist to the Japanese tradition of open-flame grilling, while the oceanfront Brown’s Beach House offers upscale open-air dining. The iconic Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection (aubergeresorts.com) recently underwent a $200 million renovation, and the luxe amenities are hard to beat, including the acclaimed Canoe House restaurant with farm-to-table Japanese and Hawaiian-influenced cuisine. For haute shopping and more restaurants, head to the Shops at Mauna Lani (shopsatmaunalani.com) or the Kings’ Shops (kingsshops.com). Tucked behind the Kawaihae dock area sits Cipriano’s Kitchen (ciprianoskitchenhawaii.com), a Peruvian-Italian restaurant whose casual setting belies top-tier dishes.
LOCALS KNOW
The entire coastline of Hawai‘i Island was once all connected by a trail system used by the ancient Hawaiians, which today is known as the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail, or the King’s Trail. Locals particularly love a morning stroll along the water between the different Mauna Lani resorts and residences, passing by ancient fishponds, black sand beaches, tidepools, and the historic Eva Parker Woods cottage.
WAIMEA & HONOKA‘A
The charming town of Waimea sits on the slopes of Mauna Kea, enjoying cooler temperatures year-round. Its long history of ranch lands and paniolo (cowboy) culture, along with its lush acreage and sweeping vistas, have attracted both salt-of-the-earth types and affluent transplants, making for an interesting mix. Neighboring Honoka’a is a traditional town that marks the entrance to the dramatic Waipio Valley below.
HISTORY
Ranches and sugar plantations dominated the region in the 19th century. The sugar industry was one of the island’s economic powerhouses until the 1980s, and the last plantation closed in 1992.
DON’T MISS
Chef Peter Merriman helped found the Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine movement in 1988 when he opened his flagship restaurant, Merriman’s (merrimanshawaii.com). For seafood and slow-cooked barbecue in a rustic setting, head to The Fish and The Hog (fishandthehog.com). Just north of Honoka‘a is the lookout for Waipi‘o Valley, home to taro farms and a black sand beach. Fuel up at Tex Drive-In (texdriveinhawaii.com), where the malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts) have been a local favorite since 1969.
LOCALS KNOW
Volcanic soil from the slopes of Mauna Kea means an abundance of produce is grown on Hawai‘i Island. Waimea is known for its twice-weekly farmers markets.
HĀMĀKUA, HILO & VOLCANO
The east coast of Hawai‘i Island is lush and green thanks to the average of 230 days of rain annually it receives. Hilo may be the state’s second biggest city, but it has retained its quiet, vintage charm with historic buildings and plantation-style residences. It bursts with life every spring for the week-long Merrie Monarch Hula Festival. North of Hilo, the narrow road winds over bridges and through towering foliage along the Hāmākua Coast. Small villages blessed with enviable views and more waterfalls than you can count, including the famous ‘Akaka Falls, make the drive worth the trip. South of Hilo lies the rural district of Pahoa, whose frequent lava flows continue to change its topography. The artist-friendly rainforest hamlet of Volcano provides most of the lodging and dining options for explorers of the sprawling Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park (nps.gov/havo).
HISTORY
The landscape around the southeasternmost tip of Hawai‘i Island is constantly changing due to the lava flows of Kīlauea Volcano. The national park’s volcano erupts on average every 2-3 years, with its last eruption being in September 2024.
DON’T MISS
Downtown Hilo includes many early-to mid-20th-century buildings on the National Register of Historic Places; take time to walk around town to enjoy their often colorful facades. The impressive Lili‘uokalani Gardens are 25 acres of Japanese-inspired botanical gardens created in 1917 overlooking Hilo Bay. Pick up fresh fruit, tropical flowers, and sweet treats at the Hilo Farmers Market, while fresh poke is best from Suisan Fish Market (suisan.com). Local favorite Moon and Turtle is worth the stop for a rotating menu of standout seafood dishes. Enjoy the view of the Halema‘uma‘u crater over an early dinner at The Rim or Uncle George’s Lounge, inside the Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park’s historic Volcano House (hawaiivolcanohouse.com).
LOCALS KNOW
The endemic native Hawaiian ‘Ōhi’a lehua tree is a pioneer species. Its strong roots can break lava rock and turn it into soil. To prevent the spread of Rapid ‘Ōhi’a Death, a new fungal disease that has killed millions of ‘Ōhi’a trees, locals brush off their shoes and spray them with alcohol prior to hiking.
Photography by: IJfke Ridgley
