Kaua‘i may be the oldest visited island in the Hawaiian chain, but it is often considered its most beautiful, thanks to dramatic coastlines, secluded valleys and charming towns that retain the feeling of a bygone era.
PHOTO BY IJFKE RIDGLEY
LIHU‘E AND THE EAST SIDE
As the capital and largest city on Kaua‘i, Līhu‘e is home to the airport and most major conveniences. Farther up the coast, you’ll find Waialua River State Park, where the near-constant rains of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale flow into the Waialua River and its famed Fern Grotto.
HISTORY
The sprawling Kilohana Estate (Kilohana Plantation, 3-2087 Kaumuali‘i Highway, kilohanakauai.com) was once a 27,000-acre sugar plantation and the heart of Kaua‘i’s industry. The 16,000-square-foot historic Tudor mansion dates back to the 1930s and is now open for tours and events. Visit the Koloa Rum factory or take a train ride on the Kaua‘i Plantation Railway on the property.
DON’T MISS
For lunch or Sunday brunch featuring seasonal, local ingredients and views of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale, head to Gaylord’s Restaurant (Kilohana Plantation, 3-2087 Kaumuali‘i Highway, kilohanakauai.com). Take easy uphill drives to ogle the twin waterfalls of Wailua Falls above Līhu‘e and broad ‘Ōpaeka‘a Falls above Wailua. For a memorable sunset dinner, Sam’s OceanView Restaurant (4-1546 Kuhio Highway, samsoceanview.com) is an island favorite for seafood dishes in a relaxed, lively atmosphere. No visit to Kapa‘a would be complete without a visit to Shipwrecked Kaua‘i (4-1384 Kūhiō Highway B-106, Kapa‘a, shipwreckedkauai.com), a well-curated boutique of island and designer favorites.
LOCALS KNOW
The hills and farmland on Kaua‘i’s east side are home to an old sugar plantation irrigation system made up of hand-dug canals and tunnels. There is no better way to explore these than by inner tube! Book a tour with Kaua‘i Backcountry Adventures (3-4131 Kuhio Highway, kauaibackcountry.com) to get in on the fun.
NORTH SHORE
Centuries of rainfall in one of the wettest places on Earth have carved deep grooves in its verdant mountains, resulting in a green mountainscape that you can’t take your eyes off while driving through the North Shore. The quaint hamlet of Kīlauea is home to the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation and Kīlauea Lighthouse, while neighboring Princeville is a luxury development of world-class hotels and residences. Across the Hanalei River sits the picturesque surfer village of Hanalei, with plenty of shopping and dining options. Hāʻena, at the end of the road, is the jumping-off point for the famed Nā Pali Coast.
HISTORY
The secluded valley of Kalalau on the Nā Pali Coast has remained largely unchanged for centuries. Ancient Hawaiian settlements flourished on the lush valley floor until disease and other job opportunities drove them from the area in the early 1900s.
DON’T MISS
Bar Acuda (5-5161 Kūhiō Highway, Hanalei, cudahanalei.com), the place to see and be seen, boasts unique tapas and cocktails. For a healthier, all-natural version of shave ice—Hawai‘i’s favorite treat—head to popular Wishing Well Shave Ice (5-5080 Kūhiō Highway, Hanalei, wishingwellshaveice.com). Pick up island-inspired décor, jewelry, and clothing at Sway Hanalei (5-5190 Kuhio Highway) and neighboring Ohana Shop (5-5190 Kuhio Highway, ohanashopkauai.com).
LOCALS KNOW
After the North Shore flooding in 2018, access to Hāʻena State Park at the end of the road has changed. Reservations are required for all out-of-state visitors for walk-in, drive-in or shuttle access, while kama‘aina can park with a state ID.
SOUTH SHORE
The south shore boasts popular surf spots, world-class golf, shopping and several big-name family-friendly hotels in one of the sunniest areas of the island.
HISTORY
The charming town of Hanapēpē was once the island’s largest city in the time between World War I and the 1950s. Now, its historic storefronts are home to fine art galleries and boutiques, and the town served as a model for Disney’s Lilo and Stitch.
DON’T MISS
Pick up a day pass to the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i’s serene Anara Spa (1571 Po‘ipū Road, Kōloa, anaraspa.com). Savor island-inspired fine dining at Red Salt, the oceanfront restaurant at Ko‘a Kea Resort (2251 Poipu Road, koakea.com). Both shopping and dining options are first-rate at the Shops at Kukui‘ula (2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka, theshopsatkukuiula.com). Head to Allerton & McBryde Gardens (4425 Lawai Road, Kōloa, ntbg.org), a botanical garden with awe-inspiring tropical foliage.
LOCALS KNOW
The Kōloa Heritage Trail is a 10-mile, 14-stop tour of the south shore’s most important historic and cultural locations, from Spouting Horn Park’s famous blowhole to Poipu Beach, home to the endangered monk seal.
WEST SIDE
Kauai’s west side is the dry, sunny cousin of its rainy east, but certainly no less dramatic. The awe-inspiring Waimea Canyon is the star of the show, but the area also plays host to historic plantation villages and rugged beaches.
HISTORY
In 1778, Capt. James Cook became the first European to come ashore in Hawai‘i, landing near the mouth of the Waimea River. The British explorer named the islands the “Sandwich Isles” after the Earl of Sandwich, and a statue now stands in his honor in Waimea Town.
DON’T MISS
The West Side is all about the outdoors. Waimea Canyon and Kōke‘e State Park (dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp) are must-sees. For the most thrilling views of “the Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” ride with Blue Hawaiian (bluehawaiian.com) and enjoy 360-degree views. In summer, explore the sea caves and marine life of Nā Pali Coast State Wilderness Park—one of the most spectacular attractions in the world—aboard one of Nā Pali Experience’s (napaliexperience.com) six-passenger boats, departing from Kekaha.
LOCALS KNOW
A journey to the end of the road—a rough, five-mile trek with four-wheel-drive— is rewarded with a wild, dramatic beach at Polihale State Park, a popular overnight camping spot for locals with some of the best star-gazing in the state.
Photography by: IJfke Ridgley
