Maui is nicknamed the Valley Isle for the low land between the two dominating mountains of its topography—the West Maui mountains in the west and Haleakalā volcano in the east. While last year’s devastating Lāhainā wildfire will forever change the scenery and lives of those in West Maui, the island is still full of stunning, varied landscape and important cultural sites.
A scenic view on the road to Hāna, Maui. PHOTO BY INGMAR WESEMANN/GETTY IMAGES
KAPALUA/KĀ‘ANAPALI
This area north of Lāhainā has reopened in November. Kā‘anapali has long been a popular destination for well-known hotels and allinclusive resorts set on miles of soft sand with calm waters perfect for a family-friendly vacation. The neighboring communities of Napili and Honokowai have a midcentury charm with retro hotels set on a series of small, swimmable bays. The chic area of Kapalua is known for windswept cliffside vistas and miles of Norfolk and Cook pine trees along with some of the best golfing in the state. Heading farther north out of the resort area will lead you through one of the least-visited corners of Maui, where the winding road looks down over secluded beaches and windswept coastlines.
HISTORY
Lāhainā was destroyed by a wildfire on August 8, 2023, devastating a community and the state and claiming many lives. But this once a thriving city has a long and storied history worth remembering. Lāhainā was named the capitol of the Hawaiian Kingdom by King Kamehameha the Great in the early 1800s, and it later became a major whaling port. Established in 1831, Lahainaluna High School is the oldest school west of the Rockies, and thankfully this public boarding school has remained standing. The town was most recently known for its sprawling banyan tree, planted in 1873, that is showing signs of survival after the fire.
DON’T MISS
Discerning palates will appreciate the farmerand fisherman-inspired menu of Merriman’s (1 Bay Club Place, merrimanshawaii.com). Luxuriate in the secondstory infinity-edge pool after a spa treatment at the serene Spa Montage at Montage Kapalua Bay (1 Bay Drive, montagehotels.com/kapaluabay). Mellifluous melodies and engaging “talk story” by the islands’ top musicians are hallmarks of The Slack Key Show, a weekly concert series at Napili Kai Beach Resort (5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Road, slackkeyshow.com). In Napili, popular New American eatery Fond (5095 Napilihau St., fondmaui.com) will be reopening. In Kā‘anapali, find upscale brands, casualchic dining and elegant koa home accessories at Whalers Village (2435 Kā‘anapali Parkway, whalersvillage.com). For a different kind of overnight experience, locals and visitors turn to Camp Olowalu (800 Olowalu Village Road, campolowalu.com) south of Lāhainā. The lush, oceanfront property has campsites and cabins to rent, but is best known for its “tentalows,” glamping tents equipped with beds and private outdoor showers.
LOCALS KNOW
Though many of Maui’s residents appreciate a return of tourism, the island is asking for visitors to do so with aloha. This means visitors should have respect for places they are visiting and the people who reside there, refrain from taking photographs of the Lāhainā area, and to frequent locallyowned businesses first.
KAHULUI/WAILUKU
Arrival to Maui is most always in Kahului, where the airport is located along with several big-box stores for picking up vacation provisions. The historic town of Wailuku is just down the road, where plantation-style storefronts house a mix of generations-old mom-andpop stores and trendy cafes and boutiques. It’s also the jumping off point for a visit to the famed ‘Iao Valley, once a sacred burial ground for Hawaiian chiefs. Past Wailuku begins (or ends) the road to west Maui on Kahekili Highway. The narrow road is blessed with countless scenic viewpoints and much fewer visitors than the road to Hāna.
HISTORY
The ‘Iao Valley State Monument is the destination for seeing tropical flora and the iconic ‘Iao Needle, a 1,200-foot rock outcropping—both of which greatly impressed the American artist Georgia O’Keeffe. She visited Maui in 1939 on a trip commissioned by a pineapple juice campaign, and painted her famous renditions of Hawai‘i botanicals and ‘Iao Valley as a result.
DON’T MISS
Minutes from the airport is Tin Roof Maui (360 Papa Place, Ste. 116, Kahului, tinroofmaui.com), a top lunch spot serving local fare with a modern twist by Chef Sheldon Simeon. Local favorite Tiffany’s (1424 Lower Main St., tiffanysmaui.com) offers a big selection of Asian fusion dishes, while healthy Maui Juice Co. (50 N. Market St., mauijuice.co) whips up refreshing farm-totable juices. Shikeda Bento Patisserie (2050 Main St., shikedamaui.com) is the goto stop for tasty bento and onigiri. The top-notch Maui Arts & Cultural Center (1 Cameron Way, Kahului, mauiarts.org) plays host to the island’s biggest concerts.
LOCALS KNOW
If you have some time before your flight out of Maui, head to nearby Kanaha Beach Park. Expect white sand, clear blue water, and, depending on the wind, some kitesurfers at this tranquil beach minutes from the airport.
PĀ‘IA/HA‘IKŪ
Those looking for laidback surfer vibes or boho-chic boutiques should head to Pā‘ia, the gateway to Maui’s north shore. Adorable plantation-era shops and eateries line the street of this small surf town. You are sure to run into a windsurfer coming from nearby Ho‘okipa beach—the windsurfing capital of the world—or a surfer hitting up Pe‘ahi, commonly known as Jaws, where winter swells make for a world-famous surf break.
HISTORY
The Haiku Sugar Company had a large plantation in Ha‘ikū in the mid-1800s. Its mill was in operation for 20 years and used modern technology to process the cane. It was then abandoned for a century and sat in ruins in the lush foliage. Today, the Haiku Mill (250 Ha‘ikū Road, Ha‘ikū, haikumill.com) is a rustic and picturesque wedding venue and hosts historical botanical tours.
DON’T MISS
Peruse Pā‘ia’s shops for chic finds, including local artisans’ wares at Biasa Rose (104 Hāna Highway, biasarose.com). Book lunch, not dinner, at iconic Mama’s Fish House (799 Poho Place, Pā‘ia, mamasfishhouse.com) so views of waves accompany signature dishes such as Tristan Island lobster tails and Polynesian Black Pearl, an orb of lilikoi chocolate mousse served in a pastry seashell. Excellent casual options also abound in Pā‘ia, from the woodfired “pies” of Flatbread Pizza (89 Hāna Highway, flatbreadcompany.com/maui) to the luscious scoops of Pā‘ia Gelato (99 C Hāna Highway, paiagelato.com). Nuka (780 Ha‘ikū Road, Ha‘ikū, nukamaui.com) excels at modern Japanese cuisine and handcrafted cocktails. Choice Health Bar (11 Baldwin Ave., choicehealthbar.com) have a great location in Pā‘ia that serves smoothies, acai bowls and healthy treats.
LOCALS KNOW
Those looking to spot a honu, or green sea turtle, should head to the beaches surrounding Pā‘ia. Ho‘okipa and Baldwin Beach parks are especially turtle-friendly around the sunset hours.
KULA/MAKAWAO
When the road climbs higher up the slopes of Haleakalā mountain and the temperature drops, you’ve entered what is referred to as Upcountry. Here, you’ll pass through the rolling fields of farmland and impressive estates of Kula before entering into Haleakalā National Park.
The otherworldly lunar landscape within the crater and sunset above the clouds from the summit at 10,000- feet are impressive sights to behold. The nearby town of Makawao has a long history of ranching, with rodeos and paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys) to match. The town is now also a thriving arts center filled with interesting boutiques and galleries.
HISTORY
The T. Komoda Store and Bakery has been a Maui institution for over 100 years. The Makawao favorite is known for its cream puffs, using the same recipe since 1960. Come early as the sweet treats often sell out.
DON’T MISS
Witness the magnificence of sunrise from the summit of Haleakalā (reservations required, nps.gov/hale). In Makawao, stop by The Monarch Collective (3682 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, monarchcollectivemaui.com) for a well-curated assortment of clothing, jewelry and home goods from designers local to the Hawaiian Islands. Brighten your aura at Lumeria (1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, lumeriamaui.com), a gorgeous wellness center that offers daily restorative classes, spa treatments and transformative retreats. Holoholo Surf (3621- A, 3625 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, holoholosurf.com) is a must-stop for locally designed retro alohawear and Posh Pua swimwear in a cool, surf-inspired boutique.
LOCALS KNOW
The slopes of Haleakalā are especially fertile grounds, making Kula a long-visited destination for farm fresh items like protea, persimmons, strawberries and lavender. The Upcountry Farmers Market, held on Saturday mornings, is the perfect place to pick up produce and flowers that aren’t available elsewhere. Come holiday season, the market also hosts popular wreath-making workshops.
KIHEI/WAILEA/ MAKENA
South Maui is popular with visitors and locals alike for its consistently sunny weather and fantastic beaches overlooking the neighboring islands of Lāna‘i and Kaho‘olawe. Kīhei is the place to be for lively bars, affordable accommodations and the only semblance of nightlife in Maui. Further down the road the amenities are decidedly more upmarket in Wailea and Makena, where first-class resorts and private housing communities are surrounded by upscale shopping, dining and golf options. Some of the best beaches on the island can be found towards the end of Makena Road.
HISTORY
Molokini, the crescentshaped island 3 miles off the coast of Maui, was used during World War II for bombing practice. It has since been restored and converted into a Marine Life Conservation District and Bird Sanctuary, home to 250 species of tropical fish. Scuba enthusiasts can join a diving tour leaving daily from Ma‘ala‘ea Harbor.
DON’T MISS
Whether swimming, standup paddleboarding or skimboarding, dip into the waters of Wailea Beach. Snorkel or hike around La Pérouse Bay in the early morning, when you may spy dolphins. At the Shops at Wailea (3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, theshopsatwailea.com), experience the playful yet deeply rooted Filipino- Hawaiian cuisine at Top Chef alum Sheldon Simeon’s Lineage (lineagemaui.com). Turtles can often be found in the waters of Wailea Beach, in front of the luxurious Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea (3900 Wailea Alanui Drive, fourseasons.com). Families will bask in the elaborate pools at the newly luxurious Wailea Beach Resort–Marriott, Maui (3700 Wailea Alanui Drive, waileabeachresort.com) and will enjoy a family-friendly outing to the Maui Ocean Center (192 Ma‘ala‘ea Road, mauioceancenter.com), an aquarium next to Ma‘ala‘ea Harbor. The retro 1950s-style diner Cool Cat Café that was popular in Lahaina and known for the best burger on Maui is now relocating to Kīhei (1819 S. Kīhei Road, coolcatcafe.com).
LOCALS KNOW
Avoiding the crowds in Kā‘anapali, locals head to Makena Beach State Park for a day of fun in the sun. The area is divided into Big Beach, a stretch of undeveloped white sand beach two-thirds of a mile long, and Little Beach, a small cove without amenities.
HĀNA
The oft-mentioned Road to Hāna is one of Maui’s main tourist attractions, but it is not for the faint of heart. The three-hour, 52-mile journey often takes much longer once you realize that there are so many exciting stops along the way, from roadside food stands and scenic viewpoints to countless waterfalls—both along the road and hidden deep in the jungle. The infamous route features hairpin turns, steep cliffs and one-lane bridges and ends in the island’s easternmost town. The destination is worth more than just a looksee, as the stunning natural features around town and just past it make it worth overnighting for.
HISTORY
Ke‘anae is a community located on a pristine peninsula jutting off the Hāna Highway that is worth a detour. The whole village was destroyed by a tsunami in 1946 generated by an 8.6-magnitude earthquake off the coast of Alaska, but thankfully the historic Ke‘anae Congressional Church, built in 1856, was spared.
DON’T MISS
Roll down the window to take in the smell of rainbow eucalyptus, guava and wild ginger. Stop for a sweet treat from Coconut Glen’s roadside stand at mile marker 27.5 where they whip up vegan coconutmilk- based ice cream.
Discover the black-sand beach and freshwater caves at Wai‘anapanapa State Park (Wai‘anapanapa Road, dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp) but be sure to make a reservation in advance to enter the park. Hike through a bamboo grove to a towering waterfall, and, when rangers permit it, soak in the cascading waterfalls of ‘Ohe‘o Gulch (once nicknamed “Seven Sacred Pools”) in Haleakalā National Park’s Kipahulu District (nps.gov/hale). The region’s lone resort, Hana- Maui Resort (5031 Hāna Highway, hyatt.com), is an oasis for rejuvenating spa treatments and also offers cultural classes like feather lei making and Hawaiian checkers. Thai Food By Pranee (5050 Uakea Road, Hāna) whips up authentic Thai dishes that sell out quickly.
LOCALS KNOW
The road to Hāna can often be a hairy trip to navigate, and sometimes it is better left to the experts. Sit back and take in the views from one of many tour operators that run the road, such as locally-owned-andoperated Local Tours Maui (localtoursmaui.com), or the family-run, ecoconscious Oui Tour Maui (ouitourmaui.com), who take up to 6 people in a minivan and customizes as many stops as you’d like along the way.
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