From the warm shores of Wailea to the moonscape peak of Haleakala, the chilly fields of Kula to the lush rainforests of Hana—Maui has it all. The Valley Isle appeals to all types of visitors and offers diverse landscapes and spectacular scenery.
PHOTO BY IJFKE RIDGLEY
Lāhainā is healing after the devastating fires of 2023, but the surrounding areas have been finding their footing. Kā‘anapali has long been a popular destination for well-known hotels and all-inclusive resorts set on miles of soft sand with calm waters perfect for a family-friendly vacation. The neighboring communities of Napili and Honokowai have a midcentury charm with retro hotels set on a series of small, swimmable bays. The chic area of Kapalua is known for windswept cliffside vistas and miles of Norfolk and Cook pine trees along with some of the best golfing in the state. Heading farther north out of the resort area will lead you through one of the least-visited corners of Maui, where the winding road looks down over secluded beaches and windswept coastlines.
HISTORY
Lāhainā was flattened by a fire on August 8, 2023, devastating a community and the state and claiming many lives. But this once-a-thriving city has a long and storied history worth remembering. Lāhainā was named the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom by King Kamehameha the Great in the early 1800s, and it later became a major whaling port. Established in 1831, Lahainaluna High School is the oldest school west of the Rockies, and thankfully this public boarding school has remained standing. The town was most recently known for its sprawling banyan tree, planted in 1873, that is showing signs of survival.
DON’T MISS
In 2019, Hawaii Farm Project partnered with Maui Ku’ia Estate Chocolate to create a one-of-a-kind Maui Chocolate Tour experience (mauichocolatetour.com), which reopened over the summer. Discerning palates will appreciate the farmer- and fisherman-inspired menu of Merriman’s (merrimanshawaii.com). In Napili, popular eatery Fond (fondmaui.com) serves local Hawaii and New American food with an upscale twist. In Kā‘anapali, find upscale brands, casual-chic dining and elegant koa home accessories at Whalers Village (whalersvillage.com).
LOCALS KNOW
Though many of Maui’s residents appreciate a return of tourism, the island is asking visitors to do so with Aloha. This means visitors should respect the places they are visiting and the people who reside there, refrain from photographing the Lāhainā area, and frequent locally owned businesses.
Arrival to Maui is most always in Kahului, where the airport is located along with several big-box stores for picking up vacation provisions. The historic town of Wailuku is just down the road, where plantation-style storefronts house a mix of generations-old mom-and-pop stores and trendy cafes and boutiques. It is also the jumping-off point for a visit to the famed ‘Iao Valley, once a sacred burial ground for Hawaiian chiefs. Past Wailuku begins (or ends) the road to west Maui on Kahekili Highway. The narrow, hair-raising road is blessed with countless scenic viewpoints and much fewer visitors than the road to Hāna.
HISTORY
The mid-1800s brought the growth of sugar plantations, and the Wailuku Sugar Company employed plantation workers from disparate places like Japan, China, Korea, The Philippines, Portugal, the Azores, and Europe—each bringing their own culture, food, and religion with them. Wailuku became a thriving hub of commerce, named Maui’s county seat in 1905. The town was built in an eclectic mix of art deco, colonial, plantation, and New England influences that can still be seen today.
DON’T MISS
The ‘Iao Valley State Monument is the destination for seeing tropical flora and the iconic ‘Iao Needle, a 1,200-foot rock outcropping. Minutes from the airport is Tin Roof Maui (tinroofmaui.com), a top lunch spot serving local fare with a modern twist by Chef Sheldon Simeon, who also recently took over local favorite Tiffany’s (tiffanysmaui.com) with classic Hawai‘i dishes with Chinese, Japanese, Filipino, and Portuguese influences. Healthy Maui Juice Co (mauijuice.co) whips up refreshing farm-to-table juices. Shikeda Bento Patisserie (shikedamaui.com) is the go-to stop for tasty bento and onigiri. The top-notch Maui Arts & Cultural Center (mauiarts.org) plays host to all of the island’s biggest concerts.
LOCALS KNOW
Those brave enough to attempt the hairpin-filled drive further west on Kahekili Highway will be rewarded with some of the best banana bread on the island. The humble stand on the side of the road around the hamlet of Kahakuloa has delicious banana treats, which have been made for generations.
Those looking for laidback surfer vibes or boho-chic boutiques should head to Pā‘ia, the gateway to Maui’s north shore. Adorable plantation-era shops and eateries line the streets of this small surf town. You are sure to run into a windsurfer coming from nearby Ho‘okipa beach, the windsurfing capital of the world—or a surfer hitting up Pe‘ahi—commonly known as Jaws—where winter swells make for a world-famous surf break.
HISTORY
Haiku has two historic properties that are worth the visit if possible. Haiku Mill (haikumill.com) is a rustic and picturesque wedding venue and hosts historical botanical tours set in the ruins of the mill of the Haiku Sugar Company from the mid-1800s. Haiku House Maui (haikuhousemaui.com) is a nine-bedroom, 20-acre historic estate that dates back to 1849, the perfect rental home for groups.
DON’T MISS
Peruse Pā‘ia’s shops for chic finds, including handcrafted leather accessories at Clhei (clhei.com). Book lunch, not dinner, at iconic Mama’s Fish House (mamasfishhouse.com) so views of waves accompany signature dishes such as Tristan Island lobster tails and Polynesian Black Pearl, an orb of lilikoi chocolate mousse served in a pastry seashell. Excellent casual options also abound in Pā‘ia, from the wood-fired “pies” of Flatbread Company (flatbreadcompany.com/maui) to the luscious scoops of Pā‘ia Gelato (paiagelato.com). Nuka (nukamaui.com) excels at modern Japanese cuisine and handcrafted cocktails. Choice Health Bar (choicehealthbar.com) lost their flagship restaurant to the fire, but has another great location in Pā‘ia that serves smoothies, acai bowls, and healthy treats.
LOCALS KNOW
Those looking to spot a honu, or green sea turtle, should head to the beaches surrounding Pā‘ia. Ho‘okipa and Baldwin Beach parks are especially turtle-friendly around sunset.
When the road climbs higher up the slopes of Haleakalā mountain and the temperature drops, you’ve entered what is referred to as Upcountry. Here, you’ll pass through the rolling fields of farmland and impressive estates of Kula before entering Haleakalā National Park. The otherworldly lunar landscape within the crater and the sunset above the clouds from the summit at 10,000 feet are impressive sights to behold. The nearby town of Makawao has a long history of ranching, with rodeos and paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys) to match. The town is now also a thriving arts center filled with interesting boutiques and galleries.
HISTORY
The T. Komoda Store and Bakery has been a Maui institution for over 100 years. The Makawao favorite is known for its cream puffs, which have been made using the same recipe since 1960. Come early, as the sweet treats often sell out by 10 a.m.
DON’T MISS
Witness the magnificence of sunrise from the summit of Haleakalā (nps.gov/hale). In Makawao, stop by The Monarch Collective (monarchcollectivemaui.com) for a well-curated assortment of clothing, jewelry and home goods from designers local to the Hawaiian Islands. Brighten your aura at Lumeria (lumeriamaui.com), a gorgeous wellness center that offers daily restorative classes, spa treatments and transformative retreats. Holoholo Surf (holoholosurf.com) is a must-stop for locally designed retro alohawear and Posh Pua swimwear in a cool, surf-inspired boutique. Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center (huinoeau.com) is the place for art exhibits and workshops. Pick up a lei po‘o (head lei) or learn how to make your own at Haku Maui (hakumaui.com). Maui local Ryan Burden teaches how to grow, open, and cook coconuts at his farm, Coconut Information (coconutinformation.com)
LOCALS KNOW
The Polipoli Spring State Recreation Area is a grassy, mountainous area on the slopes of Haleakala in Kula. It is a popular gathering place for locals to mountain bike, picnic, or watch the sunset.
South Maui is popular for its consistently sunny weather and fantastic beaches overlooking the neighboring islands of Lāna‘i and Kaho‘olawe. Kīhei is the place to be for lively bars, affordable accommodations, and the only semblance of Maui nightlife. Further down the road, the amenities are decidedly more upmarket in Wailea and Makena, where first-class resorts and private housing communities are surrounded by upscale shopping, dining and golf options. Some of the best beaches on the island can be found toward the end of Makena Road.
HISTORY
Molokini, the crescent-shaped island 3 miles off the coast of Maui, was used during World War II for bombing practice. It has since been restored and converted into a Marine Life Conservation District and Bird Sanctuary, home to 250 species of tropical fish. Scuba enthusiasts can join a diving tour leaving daily from Ma‘ala‘ea Harbor.
DON’T MISS
Whether swimming, stand-up paddleboarding or skimboarding, dip into the waters of Wailea Beach. Snorkel or hike around La Pérouse Bay in the early morning, when you may spy dolphins. At the Shops at Wailea (theshopsatwailea.com), experience the playful yet deeply rooted Asian-American cuisine at chef Emmanuel Eng’s Lineage (lineagemaui.com). Turtles can often be found in the waters of Wailea Beach, in front of the luxurious Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea (fourseasons.com). Stop by the resort’s Lobby Lounge cocktail bar for nightly hula performances, handmade sushi, and craft libations. Families enjoy a family-friendly outing to the Maui Ocean Center (mauioceancenter.com), an aquarium next to Ma‘ala‘ea Harbor. Local favorite Sugar Beach Bake Shop carries freshly baked pastries and an assortment of filled malasadas (sugarbeachbakeshop.com)
LOCALS KNOW
Avoiding the crowds in Kā‘anapali, locals head to Makena Beach State Park for a day of fun in the sun. The area is divided into Big Beach, a stretch of undeveloped white sand beach two-thirds of a mile long, and Little Beach, a small cove.
The oft-mentioned Road to Hāna is one of Maui’s main tourist attractions, but it is not for the faint of heart. The three-hour, 52-mile journey often takes much longer once you realize that there are so many exciting stops along the way, from roadside food stands and scenic viewpoints to countless waterfalls—both along the road and hidden deep in the jungle. The infamous route features hairpin turns, steep cliffs and one-lane bridges and ends in the island’s easternmost town. The destination is worth more than just a look-see, as the stunning natural features around town and just past it make it worth overnighting for.
HISTORY
Ke‘anae is a community located on a pristine peninsula jutting off the Hāna Highway that is worth a detour. In 1946, a tsunami generated by an 8.6-magnitude earthquake off the coast of Alaska destroyed the whole village, but thankfully, the historic Ke‘anae Congressional Church, built in 1856, was spared.
DON’T MISS
Roll down the window to take in the smell of rainbow eucalyptus, guava and wild ginger. Stop for a sweet treat from Coconut Glen’s roadside stand at mile marker 27.5 where they whip up vegan coconut-milk-based ice cream. Discover the black-sand beach and freshwater caves at Wai‘anapanapa State Park (dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp) but be sure to make a reservation in advance to enter the park. Hike through a bamboo grove to a towering waterfall, and, when rangers permit it, soak in the cascading waterfalls of ‘Ohe‘o Gulch (once nicknamed “Seven Sacred Pools”) in Haleakalā National Park’s Kipahulu District (nps.gov/hale). The region’s lone resort, Hāna-Maui Resort (hyatt.com), is an oasis for rejuvenating spa treatments and also offers cultural classes like feather lei making and Hawaiian checkers.
LOCALS KNOW
The road to Hāna can often be a hairy trip to navigate, and sometimes it is better left to the experts. Sit back and take in the views from one of many tour operators that run the road, such as locally-owned-and-operated Local Tours Maui (localtoursmaui.com), or the family-run, eco-conscious Oui Tour Maui (ouitourmaui.com) who takes up to 6 people in a minivan and customizes as many stops as you’d like along the way.
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