Maui attracts visitors year after year who come for family-friendly resorts and luxury hotels paired with some of the best spas and restaurants in the state, and, above all, astounding nature. The Valley Isle has an incredibly varied landscape fit for any kind of traveler, from world-famous surf breaks to sunrise volcano hikes to waterfall-studded road trips.
PHOTO BY IJFKE RIDGLEY
Take in the stunning sunsets and views of Moloka‘i across the Pailolo Channel in this westernmost region of the island. This area of quiet elegance boasts windswept cliffside vistas and miles of Norfolk and Cook pine trees along with some of the best golfing in the state.
HISTORY
Seven historic ahupua‘a— native Hawaiians’ pieshaped land divisions running from the mountains to the sea—form Kapalua Resort (kapalua.com). Once a major pineapple plantation, the area still hosts agriculture as well as the primeval uplands of the Pu‘u Kukui Nature Preserve (4900 Honoapiilani Highway, Lahaina, puukukui.org).
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Maui’s northwest shores brim with excellent beaches. The coves of Kapalua Bay and Napili Bay are often calm, making them ideal for swimming. Surf near-perfect waves and snorkel the pristine Honolua Bay marine preserve. You’ll find hiking trails that are suited to all skill levels. Discerning palates will appreciate the farmer- and fisherman-inspired menu of Merriman’s (1 Bay Club Place, 669.6400, merrimanshawaii.com). Chef Isabelle Toland (formerly of Spago) draws on her upbringing in Bordeaux and Manila to entice diners at the Banyan Tree at The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua (1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 669.6200, banyantreekapalua.com) Luxuriate in the secondstory infinity-edge pool after a spa treatment at the serene Spa Montage at Montage Kapalua Bay (1 Bay Drive, 662.6600, montagehotels.com/ kapaluabay). Mellifluous melodies and engaging “talk story” by the islands’ top musicians are hallmarks of The Slack Key Show, a weekly concert series at Napili Kai Beach Resort (5900 Lower Honoapi‘ilani Road, 669.3858, slackkeyshow.com).
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Driving north of Kapalua begins a long road trip exploring West Maui that is just as winding and scenic as the famed Hana Highway, but far less visited. Hairpin turns will take you along sweeping views over secluded beaches, around dramatic mountains and through tiny villages with more banana bread stands than you can count.
The historic whaling village of Lahaina is still steeped in a sense of history with its charming oceanfront facades. At night it becomes a bustling tourist center, with popular eateries and art galleries that cater to visitors staying in Ka‘anapali, a lovely stretch of beaches north of Lahaina home to big-name hotels and family-friendly resorts.
HISTORY
Honolulu may be the capital now, but Lahaina was capital of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i from 1802 to 1845. Whalers, missionaries and Hawaiian royalty visited or lived here in the 1800s.
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Planted in 1873, Lahaina’s sprawling banyan tree offers a vast canopy of shade for cultural and art events. You can also cool off from Lahaina’s “cruel sun,” the translation of its Hawaiian name, at Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice (626 Front St., Lahaina; 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877.3700, ululanishawaiian shaveice.com). In Ka‘anapali, find upscale brands, casual-chic dining and elegant koa home accessories at Whalers Village (2435 Ka‘anapali Parkway, 661.4567, whalersvillage.com). Board a catamaran right on Ka‘anapali Beach for a snorkel or seasonal whale-watching cruise, or stay onshore to witness the sunset cliff-diving ceremony at Pu‘u Keka‘a, commonly known as Black Rock.
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Experience sunset and the island’s best sushi at Japengo, atop a coastal bluff at the Hyatt Regency Maui in Ka‘anapali (200 Nohea Kai Drive, 667.4909, hyatt.com). For more discreet romantic dinners, book a table at Gerard’s (174 Lahainaluna Road, 661.8939, gerardsmaui.com), Lahaina’s bastion of fine French dining. Hula O Na Keiki, the annual children’s hula competition, features impressive and endearing performers from around the islands at Ka‘anapali Beach Hotel (2525 Ka‘anapali Parkway, 661.0011, kbhmaui.com).
Kahului houses Maui’s main airport, and its big stores are likely a stop for most visitors. Ten minutes away lies Wailuku, which exudes Old Hawai‘i charm with its plantation-style storefronts filled with a mix of generations-old mom-and-pop stores and trendy cafes and boutiques. Wailuku marks the gateway to the famed ‘Iao Valley, once a sacred burial ground for Hawaiian chiefs and site of one of the bloodiest battles in Hawaiian history.
HISTORY
The ‘Iao Valley State Monument is the destination for seeing tropical flora and the iconic ‘Iao Needle, a 1,200-foot rock outcropping—both of which greatly impressed the American artist Georgia O’Keeffe. She visited Maui in 1939 on a trip commissioned by a pineapple juice campaign, and painted her famous renditions of Hawai‘i botanicals and ‘Iao Valley as a result.
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Minutes from the airport is Tin Roof Maui (360 Papa Place, Ste. 116, Kahului, 868.0753, tinroofmaui.com), a top lunch spot serving local fare with a modern twist. The top-notch Maui Arts & Cultural Center (1 Cameron Way, Kahului, 242.2787, mauiarts.org) plays host to all of the island’s biggest concerts. Check the website for 2022 concerts.
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Check Maui Fresh Streatery’s (344.7929, mauifreshstreatery.com) social media to see the current locations in Kahului or Wailuku of chef Kyle Kawakami’s food truck, which also rotates the ethnic inspirations for delicious to-go fare. Maui Tropical Plantation boasts one of the island’s culinary gems: the Cafe O’Lei (1670 Honoapi‘ilani Highway, Wailuku, 500.0553, millhousemaui.com), where elevated island fare underneath the breathtaking views of Waikapu Valley are enjoyed.
Maui’s North Shore has the laid-back, bohemian surf vibes lacking in the south shore’s megaresort area. The charming town of Pa‘ia, filled with stylish boutiques and eateries housed in historic plantation storefronts, is the jumping-off point for exploring the Road to Hana. Further up the road you’ll find Ha‘iku, where big wave surfers the world over flock to surf the monstrous swells at Pe‘ahi, also known as Jaws.
HISTORY
The new watersport of windsurfing was introduced to Hawai‘i in the 1970s, and reached its zenith of popularity in the 1980s at Ho‘okipa Beach, the windsurfing capital of the world. Today it is the site of the Maui Aloha Classic, the Superbowl of windsurfing, held annually in the fall.
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Peruse Pa‘ia’s shops for chic finds, including local artisans’ wares at Biasa Rose (104 Hana Highway, 579.8602, biasarose.com). Book lunch, not dinner, at iconic Mama’s Fish House (799 Poho Place, Pa‘ia, 579.8488, mamasfishhouse.com) so views of waves accompany signature dishes such as Tristan Island lobster tails and Polynesian Black Pearl, an orb of lilikoi chocolate mousse served in a pastry seashell. Excellent casual options also abound in Pa‘ia, from the wood-fired “pies” of Flatbread Pizza (89 Hana Highway, 579.8989, flatbreadcompany.com/ maui) to the luscious scoops of Paia Gelato (99 C Hana Highway, 579.9201, paiagelato.com). Nuka (780 Ha‘iku Road, Ha‘iku, 575.2939, nukamaui.com) excels at modern Japanese cuisine and handcrafted cocktails. Head to the white sands of Baldwin Beach Park for calmer waters.
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The Dalai Lama blessed the Peace Stupa at the Maui Dharma Center (81 Baldwin Ave., Pa‘ia, 579.8076, mauidharmacenter.com), where everyone is welcome to join enlightenment rituals and meditation sessions. Ho‘okipa Beach is a resting spot for honu, or green sea turtles. Late afternoon is the best time for spotting them at the eastern end—keeping a respectable distance, of course.
Upcountry Maui is known as Paniolo (cowboy) Country, and the artsy town of Makawao has more than its share of Western influence with horseback riders coming through town and hosted rodeo competitions. The historic “downtown” of this old ranching enclave has become a hot spot for shopping and art galleries. No visit to Maui is complete without a visit to Haleakalā National Park, a dormant volcano rising 10,023 feet above sea level. To get to the park, you will pass through the sleepy community of Kula on the mountain’s slopes, home to sweeping views, cooler climates and specialty farms.
HISTORY
The T. Komoda Store and Bakery has been a Maui institution for over 100 years. The Makawao favorite is known for its cream puffs, using the same recipe since 1960. Come early as the sweet treats often sell out by 10am.
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Witness the magnificence of sunrise from the summit of Haleakalā (reservations required, nps.gov/hale). In Makawao, stop by The Monarch Collective (3682 Baldwin Ave, Makawao, 727.2057, monarchcollectivemaui.com) for a well-curated assortment of clothing, jewelry and home goods from designers local to the Hawaiian Islands.
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Brighten your aura at Lumeria (1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579.8877, lumeriamaui.com), a gorgeous wellness center that offers daily restorative classes, spa treatments and transformative retreats. On weekends, cozy Grandma’s Coffee House (9232 Kula Highway, Kula, 878.2140, grandmascoffee.com) serves eggs Benedict on cornbread waffles, along with its house-roasted java.
South Maui’s enclave of upscale resorts and condominiums with worldclass shopping, dining and golfing appeals to the moneyed set, while the area’s amazing beaches draw both locals and visitors alike. The lively seaside town of Kihei is a bit grittier with affordable accommodations and the best nightlife on the island. Fifteen miles off the coast lies the crescent-shaped isle of Molokini, whose impressive marine biodiversity plays host to snorkeling and diving tours. HISTORY Kihei’s beaches overlook Kaho‘olawe, the smallest of the Hawaiian Islands. The uninhabited island was used as a bombing target by the U.S. Military after World War II up until local protests halted the practice in 1990.
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Whether swimming, stand-up paddle-boarding or skim-boarding, dip into the waters of Wailea Beach. Snorkel or hike around La Pérouse Bay in the early morning, when you may spy dolphins. At the Shops at Wailea (3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, 891.6770, waileabeachresort.com), experience the playful yet deeply rooted Filipino- Hawaiian cuisine at Top Chef alum Sheldon Simeon’s Lineage (879.8800, lineagemaui.com). Relax at the Fairmont Kea Lani (4100 Wailea Alanui Drive, 875.4100, fairmont.com/kea-lanimaui). Families will bask in the elaborate pools at the newly luxurious Wailea Beach Resort – Marriott, Maui (3700 Wailea Alanui Drive, 879.1922, marriott.com).
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Celebs and cineastes flock to the annual Maui Film Festival (mauifilmfestival.com). The Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea (3900 Wailea Alanui Drive, 874.8400, fourseasons.com/maui) offers exquisite small bites and sunset hula in its stylish lobby lounge. Hidden in a hilltop, adults-only hotel, the Restaurant at Hotel Wailea (555 Kaukahi St., 879.2224, hotelwailea.com) pairs seasonal cuisine with sublime views.
Maui’s easternmost town is more known for the road to get you there than the destination itself. The famous (or infamous) Road to Hana is a 52- mile winding route of hairpin turns, steep cliffs and one-lane bridges. Be warned—exploring the roadside food stands, hidden waterfalls and breathtaking viewpoints will likely take much longer than anticipated.
HISTORY
The Hasegawa General Store (5165 Hana Highway, 248.7079, hasegawastore.com) is a Hana institution. Built in 1910, it is the longest-running family business on Maui and boasts an eclectic assortment of merchandise, from groceries to souvenirs to an impressive machete collection.
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Roll down the window to take in the smell of rainbow eucalyptus, guava and wild ginger. Discover the black-sand beach and freshwater caves at Wai‘anapanapa State Park (Wai‘anapanapa Road, dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp). Hike through a bamboo grove to a towering waterfall, and, when rangers permit it, soak in the cascading waterfalls of ‘Ohe‘o Gulch (once nicknamed “Seven Sacred Pools”) in Haleakala National Park’s Kipahulu District (nps.gov/hale). The region’s lone resort, Hana-Maui Resort (5031 Hana Highway, 400.1234, hyatt.com), is an oasis for rejuvenating spa treatments.
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The 52-mile journey to Hana typically takes at least three hours; it’s a scenic 20-minute flight from Kahului to tiny Hana, but there are no rental cars at the latter airport. Another alternative route is Pi‘ilani Highway from Upcountry Maui’s ‘Ulupalakua Ranch. Grab a burger at the ranch store before hitting the rugged road, or stop for refreshments at remote Kaupo Store, in business since 1925.
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