By IJfke Ridgley By IJfke Ridgley | March 20, 2024 | Food & Drink, Lifestyle, Travel & Recreation, Community, Guides,
O‘ahu is home to the state’s government and most of the population. But beyond Hawai‘i’s urban center lie historic neighborhoods, world-class surf breaks, and miles of verdant mountains and valleys.
PHOTO BY IJFKE RIDGLEY
DIAMOND HEAD/KĀHALA
One of the most expensive zip codes on the island, Kāhala is known for impressive real estate, wide avenues, and a long, uninterrupted coastline perfect for sunset walks. The crater of Diamond Head, known as Lē‘ahi in Hawaiian (meaning brow of the tuna), has long been the postcard icon for Waikīkī.
HISTORY
Diamond Head was nicknamed for the calcite crystals in the rocks on its slopes that early explorers in the late 1700s mistook for diamonds.
DON’T MISS
Check the surf from the top of Diamond Head Road; then cruise over to Monsarrat for acai bowls at Da Cove Health Bar & Cafe (3045 Monsarrat Ave., #5, dacove.com). Espresso bar and art gallery Ars Cafe (3116 Monsarrat Ave., ars-cafe.com) is a perfect place to relax over avocado toast and a cold brew. Kaimana Beach Hotel (2863 Kalākaua Ave., Honolulu, kaimana.com) draws a hip crowd to its seaside eatery, Hau Tree.
LOCALS KNOW
Kapiolani Park is the perfect place for a workout. Pair it with a loop around Diamond Head for a challenging run, or take advantage of one of the various outdoor fitness groups and classes held along its perimeter on the lawns in front of Queen’s Beach and Lē‘ahi Beach Park.
ALA MOANA/KAPI‘OLANI/MO‘ILI‘ILI
Hawai‘i boasts the world’s largest open-air shopping mall, Ala Moana Center (1450 Ala Moana Blvd., alamoanacenter.com). The area is also home to ultraluxe residential condos and Magic Island, a man-made peninsula and recreation area at Ala Moana Beach Park.
HISTORY
The local neighborhood of Mo‘ili‘ili was once a rural farming area for Hawaiian and Chinese communities. Later, Japanese and Portuguese immigrants joined the area to work at the Mo‘ili‘ili Quarry. Today, it is home to various hidden-gem boutiques like Mise Hawai‘i (932-1 Pumehana St., m33ms.com) and MONO (2013 S. King St., monohawaii.com).
DON’T MISS
At Ala Moana Center, ladies who lunch dine at Mariposa in Neiman Marcus (Mall Level 3)—they come for the laid-back but luxurious service and stay for the popovers. Take a break from shopping at Eleven, a chic cocktail bar tucked in the corner of Foodland (Street Level 1). Take in the sunset and Friday night fireworks from a stand-up paddleboard with Yoga Floats’ (yogafloats.com) on-water classes at Magic Island.
LOCALS KNOW
Ala Moana Beach Park is a popular destination for residents to surf, relax in the park, play tennis and jog its running trails. On Friday nights, families bring a picnic and sit along the water of the park’s Magic Island area to watch the free fireworks show in Waikīkī.
KAKA‘AKO/WARD AVENUE/PUNCHBOWL
The Kaka‘ako neighborhood graduated from a gritty industrial zone into a hipster arts hub thanks to various entrepreneurial local creatives. Now, the area is known for fashionable boutiques and trendy eateries centered around the SALT complex.
HISTORY
Fifteen years ago, POW!WOW! Hawai‘i was launched, a week-long mural- and graffiti-arts festival that was founded in Honolulu and later recreated in cities around the world. The festival aimed to revitalize forgotten urban areas and helped to rebrand the Kaka‘ako neighborhood, and this last year did the same for the Kalihi district.
DON’T MISS
The hip Australian-inspired coffee shop Arvo Café (324 Coral St., Ste. 1A-104B, arvocafe.com) has long been an Insta-worthy staple at the SALT complex. Hit up the South Shore Market in Ward Village (1170 Auahi St.) for locally owned boutiques, like Salvage Public, Pulau Swimwear and Kealopiko, that carry a great selection of curated island favorites. For upscale Hawaiian furnishings and decor, you can’t beat the selection at Martin & MacArthur (1450 Ala Moana Blvd., #2045, martinandmacarthur.com). Order the meat—any meat—from Butcher & Bird (324 Coral St., Ste. 207, butcherandbirdhi.com), a new butcher and deli in the SALT complex serving up some of the best burgers on the island. Upstairs from the Aloha Beer Company (700 Queen St., alohabeer.com), you’ll find exceptional craft cocktails at the speakeasy-style HI Brau Room. At botanical boutique Paiko (675 Auahi St., Ste. 127, paikohawaii.com), customize plants at the DIY bar.
LOCALS KNOW
Honolulu’s design aficionados love the artsy boutiques on Kamani Street. Design inspiration stalwart Fishcake (307 Kamani St., Kaka‘ako, fishcake.us) features modern furniture and local artists, while neighboring Island Boy Shop (307C Kamani St., Kaka‘ako, islandboy.shop) showcases an array of modern interior design and vintage Hawaiian finds.
DOWNTOWN HONOLULU/CHINATOWN
Authentic Asian markets and restaurants mix with trendy eateries and the city’s best nightlife in the Chinatown neighborhood, while adjacent downtown is the hub of Honolulu’s financial and business district.
HISTORY
The Chinatown neighborhood of Honolulu was founded in the 1840s as the whaling industry began to decline and Chinese immigrants arrived to work for the burgeoning plantation industry. Today, most all historic buildings in the area date after 1900, when a large fire destroyed most of the district.
DON’T MISS
Head to local favorite The Pig & The Lady (83 N. King St., Chinatown, thepigandthelady.com) for an inspired take on Vietnamese food that has gained international attention. The Lei Stand (1115 Bethel St., getleid.co) is a buzzy new eatery across from the Hawai‘i Theatre known for fun cocktails and bar snacks and retro-cool interiors that pay homage to the classic Chinatown lei stands. Fete (2 N. Hotel St., Chinatown, fetehawaii.com) serves seasonal New American cuisine helmed by 2022 James Beard Award winner chef Robynne Maii. Duc’s Bistro (1188 Maunakea St.) is a longtime Chinatown staple for upscale French-Vietnamese cuisine in a family-run establishment.
LOCALS KNOW
Locals love Chinatown for a weekend brunch of Dim Sum. Popular spots for the delicious Chinese spread include Mei Sum Dim Sum (1170 Nuuanu Ave., #102, Chinatown) and Fook Lam Seafood Restaurant (100 N. Beretania St., Chinatown).
KAPAHULU/KAIMUKI
Kapahulu has long been a favorite dining destination in the heart of Honolulu for every taste and budget, from hole-in-the-wall ethnic eateries to upmarket restaurants for date night. The residential neighborhood of Kaimuki also has great dining and shopping options along popular Wai‘alae Ave.
HISTORY
Kaimuki means “tī oven,” referring to the legend that Hawai‘i’s mythical Menehune cooked roots of the ti plant in the dry and dusty area.
DON’T MISS
Come early to Leonard’s Bakery (933 Kapahulu Ave., leonardshawaii.com) as the line can get long for its gloriously sugary malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts). Chef Lee Anne Wong whips up brunch favorites with a creative local twist at Koko Head Café (1120 12th Ave., #100, kokoheadcafe.com), open daily from 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Surfers and yogis head to Leahi Health Kaimuki (3441 Wai‘alae Ave., leahihealth.com) for kale smoothies and vegan fare. Mud Hen Water (3452 Wai‘alae Ave., mudhenwater.com) is a go-to for date night, where local-born chef Ed Kenney serves a modern interpretation of Hawaiian food in a groovy setting with an outdoor patio. Across the street, Miro Kaimuki (3446 Waialae Ave., mirokaimuki.com) serves upscale French-Japanese cuisine with prix fixe menus.
LOCALS KNOW
Waiola Shave Ice has long been locals’ favorite stop for the icy treat. Those in the know have been frequenting its inconspicuous Mo‘ili‘ili location (2135 Waiola St., waiolashaveice.co) for years, but its newer location on Kapahulu (3113 Mokihana St.) is an exciting addition to the neighborhood.
EAST HONOLULU
One of the best road trips on the island is made by stopping at East O‘ahu’s various lookouts to take in otherworldly rock formations, hidden coves and dramatic surf.
HISTORY
Koko Head is a popular and strenuous hike that traverses 1,048 wooden railroad ties up the side of the crater. The tramway track was originally built in 1942 by the U.S. Army to shuttle equipment and personnel between its base camp in Koko Head District Park to the military bunkers at the summit.
DON’T MISS
Get to Hanauma Bay early before the parking fills up for the best snorkeling on the island in an impressive crater setting. The picturesque cove, known locally as Cockroach Cove, has a much more romantic history as the site of the famous surf-splashed makeout scene in the 1953 film From Here to Eternity. Sandy Beach is known as a locals’ beach with a hot young crowd and deadly surf break. Take in the views after a hot but short hike to the Makapu‘u lighthouse.
LOCALS KNOW
Hidden in the suburban neighborhood of Portlock are the secluded seaside cliff areas of China Walls and Spitting Caves. Come to watch daring teens jump off the cliffs and daredevil surfers take on the summer swell and stay for the unbeatable sunsets.
KAILUA & WAIMāNALO
The beaches on the east side of the island are consistently ranked as some of the best beaches in the world for their aquamarine water, miles of coastline and white sand as fine as powder, while the centers of Waiamānalo and Kailua have retained their laidback, small-town vibes.
HISTORY
The Pali Highway that connects Honolulu to Kailua was once a small mountain trail for farmers. It wasn’t until 1962 that its current iteration with tunnels was finished. The site holds great historical significance, however, as the Pali Lookout was the site of the Battle of Nu ‘uanu in 1795 when King Kamehameha I united O‘ahu under his rule.
DON’T MISS
Along coastal Kalaniana‘ole Highway, pull into a scenic lookout point to take in the view and scan for whales. Long a Kailua favorite for sandwiches and beach snacks, Kalapawai Market (306 S. Kalaheo Ave., Kailua, kalapawaimarket.com) has opened a new Waiamānalo outpost (41-865 Kalaniana‘ole Highway, Waimānalo). Look up at the three peaks of Mount Olomana, a thrilling expert-level hike, and turn down the back roads of Waimānalo to glimpse localstyle Hawaiian life. Head to Kailua Beach and take the lengthy but smooth swim out to the seabird sanctuary called Flat Island, or explore Moku Nui, the larger of the two Mokulua Islands (known colloquially as The Mokes) off pristine Lanikai Beach by kayak or paddleboard.
LOCALS KNOW
Tucked into the mountains above Lanikai are a series of military bunkers used for maritime observation in 1943. The Ka‘iwa Ridge Trail, locally known as the Lanikai Pillbox Trail, is a short, popular hike between the bunkers that promises an amazing view of one of O‘ahu’s most celebrated neighborhoods.
KāNE‘OHE THROUGH LA‘IE
No visit to O‘ahu is complete without a drive along the island’s windward coast. This scenic road trip offers jaw-dropping mountain views, dense foliage and quaint seaside villages.
HISTORY
Tucked away in Temple Valley off the highway, the hidden Byodo-In Temple (47-200 Kahekili Highway, byodo-in.com) was built in 1968 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the first Japanese immigrants to Hawai‘i. It’s a smaller-scale replica of a temple in Uji, Japan.
DON’T MISS
From scenic Kam Highway, you’ll see the basalt islet Mokoli‘i (known locally as Chinaman’s Hat), an easy kayak ride from the shore. Just inland, the Ko‘olaus frame Kualoa Ranch (49-560 Kamehameha Highway, Kāne‘ohe, kualoa.com), an adventure park where you can tour the scenery from Jurassic Park on an ATV or jungle zip line. In Lā‘ie, the Polynesian Cultural Center (55-370 Kamehameha Highway, Lā‘ie, polynesia.com) celebrates the culture and heritage of the Pacific Islands through interactive installations and performances. Last, take a sunset horseback ride at Gunstock Ranch (56-250 Kamehameha Highway, gunstockranch.com), where you can also purchase local grass-fed beef to take home.
LOCALS KNOW
Coconut Island (Moku O Lo‘e), in the middle of Kāne‘ohe Bay, has a storied history. One of the original owners of the island, the heir to the Fleischmann yeast fortune, created his own private paradise equipped with exotic plants, a saltwater pool and even a small zoo. Now, it is home to a laboratory for the Hawai‘i Institute of Marine Biology, though you may best recognize it from the opening sequence of the TV show Gilligan’s Island.
KAHUKU THROUGH HALE‘IWA
The North Shore may be most famous for its famed surf beaches that swell in the winter, but anytime is a good time to visit the “country” side of O‘ahu, where sleepy surf villages and farmland are bordered by miles of pristine coastline.
HISTORY
Hale’iwa’s most recognized symbol is the Rainbow Bridge, the white, distinct double-arch concrete structure over Anahulu Stream built in 1921.
DON’T MISS
Stop at the food stands at the Old Kahuku Sugar Mill (56-565 Kamehameha Highway) for a selection of treats for everyone, from burgers to smoothies to garlic shrimp. The North Shore is O‘ahu’s country. Relax and drive slow—otherwise, you’ll miss the Sunrise Shack (59-158 Kamehameha Highway, sunriseshackhawaii.com), specializing in bulletproof coffee blended with coconut oil, MCT oil and grass-fed butter. Some of the most famous surf spots in the world are here. During the winter swells, see local pros at Pipeline and Sunset. In Hale‘iwa, stop by the delightful No. 808 (66-165 Kamehameha Highway, number808.com) for well-curated home decor and surf duds, or check out Guava Shop (66-111 Kamehameha Highway, #204, guavahawaii.com) for boho-chic beach essentials. No trip to the North Shore is complete without shave ice. There’s a wide selection now, but classic Matsumoto’s (66-111 Kamehameha Highway, Ste. 605, matsumotoshaveice.com) remains the most popular.
LOCALS KNOW
The winter swells bring out the world’s best surfers (and the tourists to match) to compete in the top surf competitions from December to February: Vans Triple Crown, Vans Pipe Masters and Billabong Pipe Masters. If the waves are consistently over 20 feet in this time period, you might be lucky enough to catch the “Super Bowl of Surfing,” the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational at Waimea Bay.
WEST O‘AHU
The least-visited corner of O‘ahu boasts authentic local towns, almost year-round sun and some of the prettiest water on the island.
HISTORY
Ka‘ena Point is the westernmost point of O‘ahu and is accessible only by trail. Today, it’s a bird sanctuary and state park, but ancient Hawaiians believed it was where souls jumped off into the spirit world to meet the souls of their ancestors.
DON’T MISS
Gaze at glorious views of the Wai‘anae Mountains, with Mount Ka‘ala being the tallest peak on the island. Ko ‘Olina is a playground for visitors and locals alike, where the luxe life of golf, spas and fine dining is in full swing at the Four Seasons (92-1001 Olani St., Kapolei, fourseasons.com/oahu) and is home to the most popular luau, Paradise Cove Luau (92-1089 Aliinui Drive, Kapolei, paradisecove.com). For a family vacation, arrange a stay at Aulani, A Disney Resort & Spa (92-1185 Ali‘inui Drive, Kapolei, disneyaulani.com). Stop along Farrington Highway and peek into the eerie Makua Cave, then keep driving until you hit gorgeous Yokohama Bay, the northernmost beach on the west shore.
LOCALS KNOW
The annual Buffalo Big Board Surfing Contest is a two-weekend event held at Makaha Beach in February. Founded by legendary waterman and lifeguard Richard “Buffalo” Keaulana, the event celebrates family and friendly competition with categories ranging from the classic to the fun, like tandem, heavyweight and canoe surfing.
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